Day 3: Tower of London & Westminster Abbey
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No man is an island, Entire of itself, Every man is a piece of the continent, A part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less. As well as if a promontory were. As well as if a manor of thy friend's Or of thine own were: Any man's death diminishes me, Because I am involved in mankind, And therefore never send to know for whom the bell tolls; It tolls for thee. - John Donne
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Tower of London
A fortress, a prison, an execution ground, a menagerie, a vault and now a plumb military appointment. We got to see all of the sides of Tower of London on our visit. Arriving at the Tower early in the morning, we walked past Traitors Gate where famous prisoners, including Queen Elizabeth and Anne Boleyn were brought to the Tower.
It was there that we met the famous and photogenic Yeoman Warder Crawford Butler, our guide for the morning. (Crawford is featured on the "Welcome to London" posters in Heathrow Airport.) We were among only two tour groups to see the Ceremony of the Keys, in which the main gates of the Tower are opened to the public. We beat the crowd to see the Crown Jewels, which includes the Coronation Crown worn once in a lifetime as well as more modest crowns worn for casual occasions like addressing Parliament. It was a beautiful day, and as we strolled the grounds, we saw several of the Tower's famous ravens up close, looked at wire sculptures of lions and tigers (a reminder that the royal menagerie used to reside in the Tower), and saw the front doors of 30 or so Yeoman Warders who actually live at the Tower.
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The crowds at the Tower had grown considerably by the time we started our Yeoman Warder tour, led by one of the Tower's resident "Beefeaters." The Warders show a great sense of humor even though they have to shout to be heard by the several hundred people participating in each tour. Every Warder has a different story about where the term "Beefeater" came from, although all consider it to be derogatory. The Warders showed us the White Tower, the oldest structure in the compound and built by William the Conqueror, as well as the Tower Chapel where the bodies of Lady Jane Grey and Anne Boleyn were buried. The Warders are an exclusive group, who must have a spotless military record and at least 22 years of service to apply. The last time an opening was available, more than 300 service members applied for a single spot - which leads us to the most entertaining moment of the tour. After explaining the Ceremony of the Keys, Crawford asked our tour group if we had any questions. One member, being somewhat perplexed about the Warder system, asked Crawford if a Warder has to die in order for his position to become available. Crawford wittily replied, "I hope not."
Thames River Cruise
Cruising down the Thames gives you a bird's eye view of all the classic London landmarks. Our cruise took us from the Tower of London to the Houses of Parliament, passing dozens of memorable landmarks in the process. We got a good view of Tower Bridge, London Bridge, and the HMS Belfast, as well as Shakespeare's Globe, The Shard and the London Eye - all of which line the Thames. As our cruise pulled up in front of the Elizabeth Tower (more commonly known by the name of its inhabitant bell Big Ben), our camera battery died. For the rest of the day, we were reduced to taking cell phone photos of landmarks like Westminster Abbey. But we also learned a valuable lesson: charge the camera every night lest it be destroyed by a very scenic river cruise.
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Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey is a neo-gothic masterpiece jam-packed with tombs and narrow archways into alcoves around its sides. Our guide, Tom, was well-suited for the tour, with an air of eccentricity and a penchant to zooming in-and-out on whomever he was talking to. He also loved to joke around with the group, including making references to my son Justin and his "Uncle Lord Byron" (a member of our tour had managed to locate a distant relative buried at the Abbey).
Our guides Tom and Roy came from small English towns that lost an entire generation of young men to the cause. It paints a much more realistic story of World War I than any history book ever written. The most touching moment of the trip was near the poppy encircled grave of the ‘Unknown Warrior’ where tour guide Tom recited a familiar poem:
Read: Richard III, Shakespeare's tragic history of the cutthroat king who imprisoned his nephews in the Tower of London
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Watch: Elizabeth, featuring Aussie Kate Blanchet's portrayal of the Virgin Queen, which begins with her imprisonment in the Tower
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Listen: Billy Elliot Soundtrack, featuring Elton John's soaring score about a coal miner's son who just wants to dance
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Taste: Fish and chips, the ultimate staple of British cuisine, with a nice pint of ale
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